Just back from a trip to Birmingham to do more research for my forthcoming biography of John Birt Davies, Birmingham’s first coroner. The Wolfson Centre archives at Birmingham Central Library yielded some fascinating material, including microfilms of the register kept by Davies of the 30,000 inquests he presided over from 1839-1875.
I hadn’t been to the new library before. It’s extraordinary on the outside with its grey and gold layers covered in metal filigree rings – not my taste I have to say – but inside it’s stunning, with a circular design spanning ten levels. And almost every study space in the huge library was occupied, mainly by students, so it’s obviously providing a really useful service for young Brummies.
Tracing the coroner’s footsteps was more difficult. He arrived in Birmingham in 1822 after completing his medical training at Edinburgh University. He set up his first medical practice at 19 New Street, but no trace of the original building remains in this central shopping street. After his marriage to Sarah Redfern, the family home and medical practice moved to 25 Newhall Street where they lived until his retirement. Disappointingly few buildings from that era remain. Their last home was at 280 Hagley Road, Edgbaston, but that building has gone too.
Birmingham suffered greatly from bombing during WW2, but much of the destruction has happened since the 1960s. Those responsible for the mid-twentieth century developments favoured motor cars over pedestrians, but there’s been a change of heart since. Redevelopments at New Street Station and the Bullring are more successful, and the pedestrianisation of Centenary Square will be a triumph if it’s ever finished.
Most museums and galleries were shut at the time of our visit (Feb 2022), including the main museum in Chamberlain Square that I had very much wanted to see. It was undergoing renovation and there were signs of frantic activity to get everything ready in time for the 2022 Commonwealth Games, due to open in Birmingham on July 28th.
In Victorian times coroner’s inquests were held in pubs, often with the dead body present. I had hoped to find some of the old pubs still standing, particularly the Grand Turk in Ludgate Hill where many inquests took place, but sadly most have disappeared. I found just one where Davies had presided – the George and Dragon on the corner of Albion Street and Carver Street, now lovingly restored and renamed the Pig and Tail.
Despite the wanton destruction of Birmingham’s heritage, I did make a few more exciting finds. These included the original site of the Birmingham and Midland Eye Hospital, that John Birt Davies helped to set up.
The Davies family tomb in Edgbaston Old Church, with memorials to my great great grandfather, great grandfather and father is still there, as is the tomb of Clement and Ann Cotterill, my fourth great grandparents, in the graveyard of St Philip’s Cathedral.
And it was great to see once again the clocktower erected in honour of John Birt Davies still standing by the Five Ways roundabout. The clock had stopped, though, and it was in desperate need of a new coat of paint. Birmingham City Council – please wake up!
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